At present I wish to give some primary tips about tips on how to install drywall, otherwise generally known as sheet rock. It comes in varied thicknesses, and every type of drywall has it is own applications and makes use of, however first let’s get our surfaces ready.
1. PREPARATION. I like to recommend putting in drywall directly to the wall studs or ceiling joists. Some contractors and helpful men just set up new drywall over the old ones, or paneling, or lath wall. This is a poor set up method on account of the fact that the new drywall cannot be securely mounted because of screws missing the studs, unknown electrical or plumbing lines behind the old wall, etc. When I see these installations, I generally attribute it to laziness, they didn’t charge enough to remove the old drywall, so on and so forth. There might be moisture, leakage, or termite issues happening behind these partitions, so remove everything to the naked studs. Check the insulation ( if any ), the conditions of the studs, and plumbing and electrical lines ( if any ). If everything is nice, check to verify the studs have all nails and screws removed, and is usually smooth and plumb( check plumb by using a 6 ft. level.)
2. WALL INSTALLATION. Begin by measuring the length and height of the wall to be covered. Install the drywall with the eight ft. length horizontal to the studs, if the studs are sixteen” middle the drywall should line as much as 7 of the studs with the last stud on center. continue putting in, measuring and chopping the final piece. To start the next row, install a full drywall sheet atop the row you just finished, to create a staggered impact, ensuring they line up to the studs correctly. THE KEY TO A GOOD DRYWALL INSTALLATION IS TO STAGGER THE SHEETS. If the drywall seams line up in a “cross” pattern, this creates a weak level in the installation, and will be vulnerable to crumbling.
3. CEILING INSTALLATION. Putting in drywall on ceilings is more troublesome than partitions, typically it requires two people working together. In case you are working by yourself, it is a good suggestion to rent a drywall lift for this project, working overhead wears your arms out quicker and the lift is an incredible help. Or you can construct what is known within the trades as a “dead man”, which is basically two by four lumber screwed collectively to hold up the drywall while it’s being screwed. make sure the joists are exposed and all nails and screws removed. measure and install full sheets, staggering them as you move along. Measure and mark cuts for lighting and every other ceiling fixtures. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER TO STAGGER THE SHEETS, ESPECIALLY FOR CEILINGS. Failure to take action will result in sagging ceilings, as gravity pulls on the weak points. you would have to consistently plaster the weak spots, however finally the ceiling would fall down, or have to be taken down.
4. TIPS ON PLASTERING. For wall joints I favor to make use of the perforated drywall tape, on corners and the place the ceilings meet the partitions I choose to use the usual drywall tape. Utilizing a small plaster knife (4 inch) tape your entire joints, embedding the tape as you go, smoothing out any bubbles. Let it dry thoroughly, then lightly sand smooth. Utilizing a wider plaster knife (7 inch) plaster all seams once more, letting it dry thoroughly. Sand lightly. for the final coat, use a slightly larger plaster knife (10 inch) and plaster all seams again, let it dry and sand it to get it ready for primer and paint. Most contractors use a minimum of 3 plaster coats on drywall, which is what I also recommend.
5. RECOMMENDATIONS. For partitions, use half of” drywall or thicker, for ceilings use 3/8″ drywall ( except in kitchens and baths, the place you should use half” moisture resistant drywall), for wood wall studs use 1 1/4″ coarse drywall screws, for metal wall studs use 1 1/4″ fantastic thread drywall screws, I do not suggest drywall nails, they tend to come loose, leading to “pop outs”. For ceilings use 1 1/2″ to 1 three/four” coarse screws. Be certain to make use of fire-rated drywall in basements, and moisture-resistant drywall in kitchens and baths, Double check the building codes in your space to confirm the proper types and thicknesses. Use the following pointers as a guideline for your drywall installation, and it’s best to have wonderful results.